Human love of leather from the beginning to the present has been thousands and even tens of thousands of years of history, leather production process and selection of materials through the baptism of the ages and leather craftsmen from generation to generation of inheritance in the continuous innovation and improvement.
From Chicago, with one hundred and ten years of leather brand Horween, to produce high quality leather and enjoy a reputation in the world. Many of the world's most famous brands, such as Prada, VISVIM, the UK's top shoe brand John Lobb, as well as Viberg, Yuketen, Carpe Diem, apparel and footwear brands, and even the NBA, the NFL and so on are all from the products of Horween.
But little has changed at the world-famous tannery since it was founded in 1905. Wheels full of leather are still banging in the factory, and everything is covered with a layer of grease and wax, giving off a shine that has been honed over the years.
Being the best means that you need to do every “little thing” with excellence, and in keeping with this brand philosophy, each piece of Horween leather is made by 140 experienced craftsmen who spend a huge amount of time on the ever-improving traditional process, and most of these craftsmen have been working here for 30, 40, or even 50 years. 50 years.
Most of these craftsmen have been working here for 30, 40 or even 50 years, and have always insisted on handmade products, even when demand has seriously outstripped supply.
Arnold Horween, the second-generation head of the company, once said: “It takes at least six months to make a piece of high-grade leather using our current methods. Of course there are many ways to increase the speed of manufacture dramatically, and one simply can't tell the difference...
Sadly I can see it, so six months is something to hold on to.
Every step of the process from tanning, hand rubbing colors, sanding, polishing, waxing, etc. is a huge undertaking
And horween spends 10 years or more to improve the performance of the leather by even 3% to keep on experimenting, keep on visiting customers to collect feedback.
Their attitude towards the leather business is a reflection of the spirit and principles of the factory and the Horween family for four generations, and it is this perseverance that has given birth to the legendary name of Horween.
Chromexcel is Horween in 1913 on the development of color-changing leather (pull-upleather) leather species, has a hundred years of history in 1938, this species of leather to become the official U.S. Marine Corps leather, boots made of Chromexcel followed the Marine Corps on the steps of North Africa and other important battlefields of World War II.
Chromexcel, or CXL for short, is a mixed tanned leather.
Because of the traditional process that has been followed, the making of Chromexcel is very complex, undergoing at least 89 separate processes, 28 working days, and utilizing a very large amount of equipment to do so.
The chemical reaction that transforms cured or curing leather into leather usually requires a certain degree of “cooking”.
heat, steam and pressure for a certain period of time before it becomes leather.
At the heart of the process is the application of a proprietary blend of vegetable extracts and other natural substances for retanning, as well as the use of one of the finest natural oils.
and hot greasing with a unique blend of the finest natural oils and greases such as beeswax.
The entire Chromexcel process begins with the selection of the hides, from dehairing, softening, pickling and tanning, to liming, pickling and curing.
The whole Chromexcel process, from the selection of the hides, from dehairing, softening, pickling and tanning, to liming, curing, softening and tanning, takes about a week to complete.
The tanner also needs to control the temperature, time and pH value to control the quality of the raw leather.
During the initial week of tanning, the craftsmen have to work around the clock, from Monday to Friday, to make sure that all the details are accurate.
Up to this stage, all the raw Chrome leathers have a light blue color.
The craftsmen call this raw leather “wet blue”.
The tanner selects the “wet blues” according to their quality, weight, thickness, grain, etc., which are qualified to be used for the Chromexcel, which shows that the quality control of the initial tanning process is already very strict in Holven.
The next step is retanning, where a special and proprietary mixture of bark extracts and natural medicines is used to alloy the chrome molybdenum.
The purpose of such a tanning method is to enhance the softness, suppleness and durability of the leather, while vegetable tanning aims to give the leather a fuller, more vintage color.
It is evident that the Holvin factory leather production is willing to put its heart and soul into it
The next step is “hot stuffing” - i.e. impregnation of the solids with oils, waxes and greases at room temperature.
The stuffing is achieved by using steam treatment and is responsible for the process of “pulling up” of this leather, which is the temporary displacement of these oil and wax mixtures resulting in the polishing of the leather.
Pulling up is the temporary displacement of this mixture of oils and waxes, resulting in the buffing of the leather.
Horween's philosophy is that “if you want to make the best leather, you need the best material”.
In keeping with this philosophy, the animal fats used in the hot fat treatment are edible grade tallow and cosmetic grade beeswax.
Chromexcel's leather is warm and smooth, with a very strong vintage flavor from the slight waxing and fine grain.
It also has excellent pull-upleather properties.
As long as the leather is squeezed by the outside world, there will be a wonderful gradation of color, this is because the leather itself is rich in oil, the part of the oil in the force of the oil in the movement, the formation of our so-called “pull-up” performance, and the force surface in the elimination of the external force can be restored to the original, but here we need to emphasize is that the black cxl does not have the effect of color change. The black cxl has no discoloration effect.